ID2015 to unveil the Spring/Summer 2016 collections from 11 Irish fashion designers in London
Unfold will showcase collections from 11 established Irish fashion designers at London Fashion Week this September as part of the Irish Design 2015 (ID2015) international programme of events and activities. London Fashion Week is one of the world’s highest profile designer showcases, presenting a key opportunity to increase the profile of Irish fashion designers and develop growth of business through exposure to an international audience of media and buyers.
In line with the commercialisation and internationalisation objectives of ID2015, Unfold will be presented at the Institute of Contemporary Arts (ICA) on Friday 18th and Saturday 19th September as an official on-schedule event as part of London Fashion Week.
The 11 designers unveiling their SS16 collections as part of Unfold at the ICA are NATALIEBCOLEMAN, We Are Islanders, Emma Manley,
Jill de Burca, Helen Steele, Honor Fitzsimons, Chupi, Maria Dorai Raj, Laura Kinsella, Martha Lynn and Capulet & Montague.
The selection of these 11 designers across womenswear, accessories, fine jewellery and millinery was chosen by a judging panel consisting of Shelley Corkery, Fashion Director for Brown Thomas; Aisling Farinella, Fashion and Textiles Advisor to ID2015; Constance Harris, Fashion Editor at the Sunday Independent; Brian McGee, Acting Chief Executive of the Design & Crafts Council of Ireland; and Alex Milton, Project Director, ID2015, following a call out earlier this year with over 40 applications. Each of the successful applicants is being supported by an international industry mentoring panel in developing their SS16 collections for presentation at London Fashion Week.
Karen Hennessy, Chief Executive of ID2015 said that providing emerging designers with opportunities to present their work internationally is vital to sustaining and growing the Irish fashion sector and that the experience and industry knowledge gained from participating in the event will help to progress the fashion industry at home.
“Through the Irish Design 2015 programme, we are seeing real commercial opportunities emerge for developing international markets. Following the fantastic response to the work of emerging designers showcased during Ireland’s inaugural presence at the International Fashion Showcase at London Fashion Week earlier this year, we are delighted to be introducing the latest collections from established Irish designers to discerning audiences during London Fashion Week in September. These designers have the ambition and capability to expand into international markets. We look forward to seeing opportunities unfold from our presence in London, building a legacy for the ongoing development of our innovative and vibrant fashion sector,” she said.
ID2015 is working to create an international platform for Irish designers to develop new sales opportunities and build their brand profile internationally through new media opportunities. In February 2015, ID2015 presented In The Fold, an exhibition of work by 8 emerging Irish designers during London Fashion Week at the prestigious International Fashion Showcase organised by the British Council and the British Fashion Council, providing visitors with a first glimpse of some of the most exciting new international designers working today.
Unfold at LFW 2015 is one of a number of events in London this September as part of the Irish Design 2015 programme. ID2015 is partnering with London Design Festival (19th – 27th September) in presenting The Ogham Wall at the V&A, an ambitious landmark project designed by Grafton Architects in collaboration with Graphic Relief and sponsored by Techrete. The Design & Crafts Council of Ireland will participate once again at Tent London, presenting an exhibition entitled Ó, meaning 'from' in the Irish language, which will feature beautifully designed products in stone, glass, ceramics, wood and textiles from over 20 designers.
During LDF, ID2015 will also launch The Souvenir Project, a collection of contemporary souvenirs that explores the local context, championing creative collaborations between Irish designers and makers, a project specially commissioned by ID2015 and curated by Jonathan Legge, Makers & Brothers which will be dual sited at Rochelle School and at Tent London as part of Ó.
Institute of Contemporary Arts, London
18th & 19th September 2015
Notes to Editors:
Unfold will be presented in an international commercial showroom environment at the Institute of Contemporary Arts (ICA) and is an official on-schedule event as part of London Fashion Week.
Friday, 18th September:
Model Presentation for invited guests including buyers, media, agents, fashion industry professionals and influencers.
Saturday, 19th September:
Showroom appointments scheduled with buyers and media for designers
About the designers:
Capulet and Montague
‘Progressing and evolving’ is how Lisa McCormack describes her jewelry label Capulet & Montague, launching her first collection in 2012.
With simplicity of form and the skill of creation imbued in her designs, the Irish born designer has experienced a swift trajectory since the launch of her design company, winning the coveted Irish Fashion Innovation Award for Jewellery Designer of the year 2015. She also took home inaugural overall award for innovation in all categories.
Modern, elegant and sleek, Lisa allows the materials to speak for themselves within each piece, creating clarity of form and design that is distinct within all her collections.
Lisa continues to explore the relationship between the past and the present, employing craft techniques that combine organic elements with modern aesthetics, without overtly altering the original form.
Capulet & Montague has gained a strong following among women who appreciate her acute boldness and purity of design. Her work has been featured in numerous magazines, editorial shoots and features, partnered with pieces ranging from haute couture to established Irish designers.
Chupi is an Irish designer, making delicate gold jewellery inspired by the beauty of natural and wild things.
She was the kid covered with glitter & glue, the one making some new crazy things out of papier mache, but never thought she'd end up making beautiful sparkly jewellery as her job. Aged 17 she sold her very first piece, vintage Levi's turned into a gorgeous bag, lined with bright pink satin and adorned with a rose. She was hooked, the idea that something she had created made someone else happy was incredible. When Chupi was 21, she was scouted by Topshop rom her first year of college, the youngest designer to ever to work with them. She went from scruffy student to serious designer overnight. In 2011 her gorgeous fiancé suggested she needed a hobby, she couldn't help but start making the jewellery she wanted to wear but couldn't find.
A friend asked for a piece, a stylist loved a ring and suddenly Chupi was a jeweller. The last two years have been a sparkly whirlwind, with the most amazing response from everyone, alongside fantastic press coverage with celebrities from Marina & the Diamonds to Ruby Wax wearing and loving Chupi’s work.
Her jewellery is made for your inner magpie, delicate pieces in sparkling gold and the shiniest semiprecious gems. Each piece is made with love in Ireland.
Manley was founded by designer Emma Manley in 2010, who after honing her craft at VPL in NYC and Alexander McQueen in London, was eager to curate a new and relevant fashion offering for the womenswear arena.
Fusing her love and skill for tailoring, luxe streetwear and embellishment, the result is a label of contemporary separates and alternative eveningwear with an edgy femininity. Delicate structures are juxtaposed with strong contemporary silhouettes, giving way to an aesthetic that is hard and soft, powerful and preciously delicate at once. Quality of fabric and production is at the core of Manley. Innovative manufacturing methods are fused with time-honoured, hand-sewn and embellished detailing.
The Helen Steele label was established in 2011 as a sister company to Silverhill Feathers, by Helen Steele and her husband Stuart Steele, CEO of Silverhill Farm in Monaghan the home of Irish duck.
The company mission statement is: "total dedication to the creation of perfection in wearable works of art" – keeping you warm in the winter and cool in the summer. The first collection of WART (wearable art) was shown at London and Paris fashion weeks for Spring Summer 2012 to extremely positive reviews with collections being sold to stockists on three different continents. Since then, the company has doubled its sales season after season, with the collection selling out within days of reaching shop floors in Seoul, Tokyo, Cannes and Dublin, and has shown at the London and Paris fashion weeks every season since start up.
Fans of the label include model Cara Delevigne, Rita Ora, Jessie J, Iggy Azelea, Eliza Doolittle, Fearne Cotton, Pixie Lott, Pixie Geldof and models Mary Charters and Jourdan Dunn and members of the Emirati royal family. All of the brands clothing is produced in Ireland in both Dublin and Monaghan.
The Helen Steele and Silverhill Feathers cross-border sustainability project, using Silverhill Farm’s pure down feathers, was awarded the Intertrade Ireland Fusion Exemplary award in 2013 and the Intertrade Ireland Business Ambassdor award in 2014.
A graduate of Fashion Design Knitwear at Central Saint Martins, Honor Fitzsimons cut her teeth at Louise Goldin, DVF, and Peachoo + Krejberg in Paris before returning home to Ireland to establish her eponymous label which was snapped up by Brown Thomas (Selfridge’s Group) CREATE Initiative in both 2013 & 2014. Awarded Image Magazine Breakthrough Designer 2015 and a Future Makers Award for Innovation 2015 by the Design and Crafts Council of Ireland.
Through a juxtaposition of unconventional materials, innovative use of traditional textile techniques, and conceptual use of colour Honor Fitzsimons strives to push the boundaries of contemporary fashion and knitwear design. Collections are ethically produced in Ireland.
Jill de Burca
Jill de Búrca has worked in the UK for over five years as a sought after Embroidery and Embellishment Designer, selling her work to a wide range of international designers, including Calvin Klein, Diane Von Furstenberg, BCBGMAXAZRIA, JCrew, Topshop, and Thurley.
An NCAD graduate who studied textiles and specialized in embroidery for her degree, she moved to Brighton to train with Larch Rose, a highly creative fashion and textile studio who were dedicated to producing innovative and directional work for the fashion industry. After two years here she became the senior embroidery designer running a small team.
While in Brighton she also trained with Jenny King, master embroiderer and while there worked extensively on the production of Erdem’s exquisitely embroidered clothes. Other clients included Stella McCartney and Mary Katrantzou.
Jill moved back to her native Dublin in 2014 and has since launched her own label. Her pieces are crafted by hand using intricate embroidery stitched with an antique Irish singer embroidery machine and hand embellishment. Digital silk printing and interesting fabric combinations are key elements throughout the collections. Despite the meticulous details, the clothes remain very wearable with a beautiful sports luxe edge.
Recently she won Irish Designer of the Year 2015 at the Irish Innovation awards in Galway and also won the Ones to Watch category at Kerry Fashion Week 2015. Jill also featured in CREATE 2015 at luxury Irish department store Brown Thomas.
Laura Kinsella creates individual, exquisite and abstract hats, headpieces and accessories, by traditional technique in her Dublin-based studio. Laura, another talented alumna of the award-winning and highly-acclaimed Limerick School of Art & Design, graduated with an honours degree in Fashion Design in 2008.
The Irish milliner honed her skills around the globe, everywhere from a design studio in Melbourne to Mexico City under designer Alejandra Quesada. Here she assisted with her Womenswear and Accessories Label. On her return to Ireland, Laura specialised in Millinery learning under several Irish milliners and interned in London with Philip Treacy. After several years of training, apprenticeships and working in the millinery industry Laura launched her first bespoke range in 2013.
Throughout 2014 Laura collaborated with Irish designer Danielle Romeril on both her spring/summer 2014 and 2015 collections. Romeril’s spring/summer 2015 collection was presented at London Fashion Week to much acclaim.
Early 2014 saw Laura crowned Image magazine’s Breakthrough Designer of the Year at Kerry Fashion Week. Later at the RDS horseshow her ‘Sora’ headpiece was named ‘Most Creative Hat’ by judges Angela Scanlon and Philip Treacy.
In 2015, Laura was one of 8 designers that represented Ireland at the International Fashion Showcase at London Fashion Week Crowned Irish Milliner of the Year at Kerry Fashion Week in association with Image magazine.
Maria Doria Raj
dorai is a line of hand-crafted contemporary jewellery created by Maria Dorai-Raj in Cork, Ireland. Maria’s designs draw from a wide range of influences, from the iconic geometry of Piet Mondrian’s paintings to the strangely beautiful anatomy of the human body. Her eclectic Irish-Indian heritage is reflected in the ethos of dorai, which fuses modern design with traditional, superbly executed craftsmanship.
Maria fell in love with the art of jewellery making at the Alchimia School of Contemporary Jewellery in Florence, Italy, where she learned the goldsmithing techniques she uses today. With a degree in ceramic design and a background in high fashion, she was soon chosen for an apprenticeship with an established Irish jeweller where she continued honing her skills.
dorai was selected as one of four finalists for the Fashion Innovation “Jewellery Designer of The Year” award in 2014 & 2015 as well as being chosen for ‘Create’, an exhibition of leading Irish designers at Brown Thomas, in 2013, 2014 and 2015
Martha Lynn is an Irish milliner based in Dublin with a degree in Fine Art Sculpture. She study millinery under Aileen Keogan at the Grafton Academy, Dublin after college and went on the spent some time interning with Philip Tracey and Stephen Jones in London in 2010.
Lynn returned to Dublin to set up her own label and has never looked back. Following from the success of Create, the ‘Irish Design Pop-Up’in Brown Thomas in 2013, Brown Thomas invited Martha to do her own Pop-Up in store in their Dublin and Galway stores for 3 months last year.
Lynn boasts an international clientele and has recently been featured in Elle and Sunday Times Style. Martha Lynn’s millinery has an innovative feel as she uses contemporary materials, such as vinyl and perspex with a reduced structure of colour.
She strives to include touches of paired back elegance and playfulness as she combines traditional millinery skills with modern silhouettes, bold contrasts and clean lines. Martha Lynn is winner of the 2013 Milliner of the Year at Irish Fashion Innovation Awards; shortlisted for Tatler Business Women of the Year Ireland, 2013; shortlistd for Young Business Woman of the Year, Image magazine, 2011; and Listed in the Top 100 Most Inspirational Women in Image magazine, 2011.
Natalie B Coleman studied fashion at Limerick School of Art & Design and on the MA course at Central St. Martins London. She has worked in Industry for such fashion labels as threeASFOUR, New York and Ragna Frodadottir, textile designer in Iceland before establishing her own womenswear label in 2011 with Suzie Bubble writing about her first collection.
With a background in strong narratives and quirky romance Natalie creates beautiful, feminine, contemporary, flirtatious looks with special attention to finish, fabric and detail.
The label has been featured extensively in magazines and periodical’s both nationally and internationally such as Harpers Bazaar, Dutch Vogue, Glamour, Company, Grazia and Marie Claire.
We Are Islanders
Rosie O'Reilly is creative director of WE ARE ISLANDERS Art/Fashion house.
She works as a visual artists, maker & designer. Most recently artist in resident at LABoral in Gijon, Spain exhibiting ‘Seasons in Translation’, ‘NLA III’ at Museum of Contemporary Art Dublin 2013, ‘4/704’ at The Fringe theatre festival Dublin 2013, and the Science Gallery Dublin (2013, 2014).
Rosie is co-founder of Re-dress.ie – Ireland's sustainable fashion body.
About Irish Design 2015:
Through a year-long programme of events and activities exploring, promoting and celebrating Irish design both in Ireland and internationally, Irish Design 2015 (ID2015) aims to showcase the very best of Irish design in order to drive job creation, grow exports and increase competitiveness. ID2015 is an island of Ireland initiative engaging the public, the design community and businesses, promoting Irish design in just about every form at home through events and exhibitions while also targeting the export market through trade missions and events in international capitals of design and commerce. ID2015 is being convened by the Design & Crafts Council of Ireland (DCCoI), in collaboration with partner organisations, on behalf of the Department of Jobs, Enterprise and Innovation, the Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade and Enterprise Ireland. Irish Design 2015 partners include Founding Partners - MCO Projects; Accommodation Partners - The Doyle Collection; Venue Partners - OPW; Exhibition Partners – DAA; Technology Partners – IBM; Transport Partners – Bus Éireann Expressway; and Construction Partners – SISK.
About London Fashion Week:
London Fashion Week (LFW) is one of the highest profile fashion events in the world and one of the ‘big four’ international catwalk influencers. The event is organised by the British Fashion Council (BFC) and funded by a number of sponsors (including principal sponsor Vodafone). LFW puts London and British fashion firmly on the global stage; it is estimated that orders of over £100m are placed during LFW each season - the International Guest Programme alone generates over £50m of orders. Over 5,000 visitors attend: buyers, TV & radio crews, journalists and photographers. Media coverage equals or exceeds most major news and international sporting events.
There are 60 catwalk shows on the official schedule as well as further 45 show off schedule and more than 30 on-schedule presentations and salon shows. The Designer Showrooms that run alongside the catwalk shows showcase over 120 ready-to-wear and accessories designers each season.